https://retailpanama.com/m64z4dr1a Got a little bit of a late start, I had to run out to Harbor Freight after work to pickup a die grinder for the work tonight, and ran a few other errands, but I managed to put 3.5 hours in, and have the rear spar ready for metal finishing and then priming. I am at the start of the “Assembling the Rear Spar” section of the plans, and the main spars are done for a few more steps. The session started out by deburring all the edges of the rear spar parts: W-707A rear spar channel, W-707E and W-707F doubler plates, W707G reinforcement fork and the W-707D rear spar doubler. I deburred the edges using the scotchbrite wheel, which made quick work of the parts, even the long rear spar channels.
Buy Genuine Zopiclone Onlinefollow link Then, Vans has us trim away a decent chunk of the W707G and W707D doublers since this is an RV-7. I studied the plans for a bit and then made the careful measurements, and marked the lines. Stupid me forgot to take photos of my marks before I made my cuts, so I don’t have a good way to show how I did it, but here is the part of the plans that gives the cut dimensions:
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https://serenitycareandcompassion.com/wh9dpwsfl I first decided to cut the W-707D Rear Spar Doubler first, since it would be cheap and easy to ship in case I messed it up. Note how the shaded part is angled a bit and there are 4 measurements I had to make and then mark. Once I had my marks made, I connected the marks with a straight line using a machinists ruler. After confirming everything was right, I decided to cut it using my bandsaw with a metal blade. This is thick aluminum, so snips was not an option and I figured I would cut with the bandsaw and then grind away any odd cuts or un-eveness from the saw. It actually turned out really nice, and only needed a very small amount of grinding!
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https://www.galassisementi.com/wh75bb5k Once I had this piece looking right, I used it as a template for the others. I have to make this same cut on the W-707D for both sides, as well as the W-707G reinforcement forks for both sides. I just cleco’d the freshly cut doubler against the other pieces, and marked the edge with a sharpie, and cut them on the bandsaw. After grinding the edges and deburring them to a smooth edge on the scotchbrite wheel, they were done.
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https://genevaways.com/ilog5sbgh Now that I have all my rear spar parts deburred, trimmed and ready to go, its time to start assembling and drilling both rear spars. I clamped W-707E and W-707F doublers into their locations. W707F was pretty easy, since it mounts flush against the most outboard edge. The W-707E needed some measuring. The plans calls out to place the most outboard edge of the doubler 50 and 3/4″ from the outboard edge of the rear spar channel. Once they were both in place, I clamped them down with side clamps and then match drilled all the holes to a #30 after double checking all the rivet sizes in the plans.
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go here Once I had all the rivet holes drilled to size, the next step is to cut out the hole for the aileron pushrod in the doubler plate. I flipped the rear spar over, and use the pre-punched hole in the spar to mark the location for to transfer the hole to the doubler plate.
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Buy Valium No Rx Then, I used a unibit to drill out the largest section of this hole, and used a #40 drill bit to drill out the smaller section. This is to get everything started so I can file, grind and trim it the rest of the way.
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https://wonderpartybcn.com/4b0yljs Once I had the holes to about close as I could get (notice there is still some black sharpie lines to be trimmed out in the photo above), I removed the double and used a combination of files (round, and flat of different sizes) and then fired up the die grind with a small grinding wheel to grind down what remained of the metal. I then finsihed up the holes with a scothbrite pad to remove any burrs that may have been left behind. I am pretty happy with how they turned out. They are slightly larger than the hole in the rear spar, but I think that’s fine.
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enter site Next up was to just repeat these same steps on the right wings rear spar. I did the aileron hole a little different, but drilling even more #40 holes to make the grinding and filing go a little quicker which seemed to have help cut down on the time it took. I still used the unitbit in the larger middle-ish section which removed about 97% of the metal I needed.
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click here I still had a little steam left, and I wanted to get these rear spar parts completed to all that was left was hole deburring and then priming, so I pushed on to the match drilling of the W-707G reinforcement fork and W-707D doubler plate. I studied over the plans to make sure that all the holes were using a #30 drill, and then clecoed the reinforcement fork and doubler plate to the rear spar channel. I did both rear spars at the same time since it was easier this way. Then, lastly, match drilled all the holes to #30 on both rear spars, and marked the parts which was left and right.
https://www.starc.org/uncategorized/tljw7w1y Thats it for tonight. I’ll save the deburring of the holes for tomorrow, and possibly a priming session on Sunday. Whenever I prime these rear spar parts, I’ll also prime the tie-down brackets so they can go ahead and get mounted up. Here is all the photos from tonights work:
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go site Google Photos Link: https://goo.gl/photos/Yjaue9L3JMiy9Jgf9
Hours Worked: 3.5