Riveting the Left Flap

Ativan Tablet Online Buy Back to riveting! Tonight I started riveting some parts together to actually for a control surface. With the flaps being at the point they are ready for final assembly, all that was left was to build a set of V-blocks to hold them to make assembly and riveting easier. So I started work tonight by making a V-block. I grabbed one of the end ribs use them as a template on the 1×8 pieces of wood from the spar crates. Van’s surprisingly uses pretty decent wood on their crates, and it comes in handy for stuff like this.

go to link I marked out the outline of the rib with a sharpie and then extended the lines on out using a ruler. I wanted to make the cut as true as possible, so i used my mitre saw to make the cuts. It doesn’t make the most square cuts at the ends, due to the round blade, but it’ll be fine for what I want to do, the angles are true. Also, to make sure I had both sides of the V-blocks cut with the same exact angle, I screwed the two pieces of wood together and cut them at the same time. I also had a piece of 2×6 left over from where I made the trailing edge bending jig and used it to make a solid base to attach the V-blocks to. It turned out pretty nice, and works great!

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go site Now, it was time to start riveting parts together. I started out with the FL-704 end rib and the FL706B doubler plate. I clecoed them together, and made sure I included the nutplate on the inside, and used my “oops” rivet on the hole in just the FL-704 end rib (see my posts earlier as to why). This was the first time I was able to use a new tool I picked up a few months ago: A Numatx Hydraulic-Pneumatic rivet squeezer as seen here: http://www.numatx-tools.com/ It makes squeezing rivets SOOO much nicer, and much easier on the wrists because it weighs about 1/4 the weight of my old pneumatic squeezer.

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Valium 5Mg Price After that, I riveted the FL706A doubler plate to the spar, and then began assembling the skeleton of the left flap. Once I had the ribs and spar assembled together, I clecoed on the bottom skin. Theres a few rivets that need to get set on the rear “spar” of the bottom skin, otherwise they are unreachable when the top skin goes on. I inserted the shims between the rear spar and the end of the rib and then squeezed the rivets.

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https://www.doktressmelange.com/2025/06/17/4jo7m93sxvc With those ribs riveted on the rear spar, it’s time to fit the top skin on and get it in the V-blocks. I cleco’d every other hole and made sure it was all trued up before removing the spar. We have to remove the rear spar so that I can reach in and buck the rivets along the line where the top and bottom skins as well as the ribs.

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go to site Vans has us rivet the line on the bottom where the bottom and top skins join together first, and then work on the ribs. I had read a trick from another builder that used a 3″ yoke as a bucking bar in the tight space, so I gave that a try, and it worked out pretty nicely. It made bucking these rivets a lot easier in such a small area.

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Buy Roche Valium I ended up not getting this flap done tonight. I spent a good hour building the V-blocks, so I didn’t want to stay in the basement all night. I was able to get about every other hole riveted along the line where the top and bottom skins join. I removed the clecos from the other holes and will finish up riveting this thing together in another build session. It felt good to buck some rivets after such a long break from not bucking. Here’s all the photos:

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